UNDER CONSTRUCTION as of 10/12/20

I get asked often, what medicines should I have on hand? This page is my answer to that question. Keep in mind it has taken me YEARS to ‘collect’ all these meds. I will try highlight the ‘should haves’ versus the ‘nice to haves’.

Essentials

MUST HAVES :

• #1 GLOVES - gloves keep YOU safe and keep you from transferring nasties from one animal to the next. Gloves are THE MOST IMPORTANT item in your medicine cabinet. Gloves are available at most farm stores

• #2 Thermometer - label it livestock or put it where family won’t find it and use it for human use. Remember, checking temperature is THE FIRST STEP in treating a sick/down animal (after you put your gloves on, of course). You can get a digital thermometer from pretty much any store (the people kind)

• Scissors - you’ll never be able to find a pair when you need them. Keep a good set hidden in your medicine cabinet… where your husband/wife or children won’t “borrow” them (and forget to return them). I shouldn’t have to tell you where to buy scissors.

• Electrolytes / Resorb / Formula 911 - in the case of a downed and very sick animal, this is a basic step. Any issue is compounded by dehydration and electrolyte imbalances. Products such as resorb have agents to gel to help keep fluids in a little longer in the case of profuse diarrhea. Products such as Formula 911 have sugars for energy and probiotics in addition to electrolytes / vitamins. These products are available in little packets at most farm stores.

NICE TO HAVES:

• Stethoscope - good for rumen and lung sounds, heart issues if you are really good. Available at most people stores.

• Gastric tube - (on top of glove box) if you have a really bad off kid, tubing is sometimes the only way to get nutrition in them. I also have a larger tube for adults, which can be used to get water/nutrients in or gas (bloat) out. Some farm stores have these, probably easier to order online or get from a veterinarian.

• Ketone test strips - I’ve since moved to a digital ketone meter (for diabetics), which are more expensive but more reliable. Remember, ketone test strips expire and must be climate controlled. Available at most people stores in the diabetic section.

• Preparation H - relieves discomfort in cases of large kids or difficult kiddings. Your does will thank you for having this on hand if you really have to pull. Available at most people stores.

• A&D - for minor skin issues associate with dry or healing skin. Available at most people stores.

• Triple Antibiotic - for minor cuts or skin issues associated with dry or healing skin. Available at most people stores.

OVER PREPARED:

• Scalpels - ordered online.

• Sutures - ordered online.

injectables

MUST HAVES:

• Since all these are injectables, you need syringes and needles. 3cc and 6cc syringes will cover most bases, it’s nice to have a 20cc or two. 20gauge x 1” and 18gauge x 1” needles will cover most bases (the smaller the number, the larger the needle), a few 16g, and one or two VERY large gauge and very long length for draining. Syringes and needles are available at most farm stores. I buy a boxes of 100 online, but I use a ton when I draw blood for disease testing.

• High Level Vitamin B Complex - Must contain thiamin (B1) as thiamin deficiency is common in an animal that is off feed. Thiamine is produced in the rumen of a healthy animal and is critical in proper neurological function (goat polio is severe thiamine deficiency). B vitamins are water soluble and cannot be overdosed. B-complex is given subcutaneously (SQ), which means under the skin (not into the muscle). A 20g x 1” needle is appropriate. I use a 6cc syringe and give the full 6cc for adults. With kids, I use a smaller amount dependign on the size/age of the kids so they don’t have a huge bubble under the skin. B-complex is stored at room temperature and is available at most farm stores.

• LA200 (Liquamycin) - This is a brand name for Oxytetracycline. If infection is indicated, immediate treatment produces best results. LA200 is a good product to have on hand if you cannot get a veterinarian (who has access to more specialized prescription antibiotics). LA200 is given intramuscularly (IM), which means in the muscle. A 18g x 1” needle is appropriate as it is viscus. Syringe size is determined by dose/animal weight. LA200 STINGS, should be stored at room temperature, and is available at most farm stores.

• Penicillin (not pictured) - If infection is indicated, immediate treatment produces best results. Penicillin is a good product to have on hand if you cannot get a veterinarian (who has access to more specialized prescription antibiotics). Penicillin is given intramuscularly (IM), which means in the muscle. A 18g x 1” needle is appropriate as it is viscus. Syringe size is determined by dose/animal weight. Penicillin must be refrigerated (shake well before use) and is available at most farm stores.

NICE TO HAVES:

• Banamine (Flunixin) - Pain is very stressful to a goat, making any issue worse. A goat in pain often won’t eat and eating is critical for rumen function, which keeps body temp up and produces the critical b-vitamins. Banamine is good to have on hand but you will need to get it from a veterinarian.

• Dexamethasone - “Dex” is a steroid that is given to induce or with antibiotics in the treatment of some ailments. You will need to get dex from veterinarian.

• Lutalyse - “Lute” is used to induce heat or abort. Women should be very careful handling lute. You will need to get lute from a veterinarian.

• Oxytocin - Oxytocin is used in some kidding situations and to assist in expelling the placenta. Women should be very careful handling oxytocin. You will need to get oxytocin from a vetrinarian.

• Epinephrine - In the case of a severe allergic reaction, epinephrine can save a life (human or animal). Epinephrine should be protected from light. You will need to get epinephrine from a veterinarian.

wound ointments

MUST HAVES:

• Vetricyn - good for any cut, puncture, or abscess. Safe enough to put in eyes. The ‘pink eye’ version is actually STRONGER than the regular. Get Vetricyn from any farm store.

• Chlorhexidine - brand name nolvasan is diacetate and effective against viruses (more expensive than regular). Chlorhexidine is a powerful wound or infection scrub. I use chlorhexidine most commonly for bumps on udders (staph or strep) and as a pre-scrub before applying castrating bands. I have also used it to help heal soremouth (orf). Chlorhexidine is available at most farm stores.

• Iodine - gentle iodine or betadine, doesn’t really matter. I use it for dipping umbilical cords and flushing abscesses when I think chlorhexidine will be too damaging to tissue and I need to flush A LOT (vetricyn too expensive for this application). Available at any farm store, probably the people store too.

• Fura-type salves - goopy so good for wounds you want to keep flies out of. ‘Swat’ version has an insecticide in it. Available at farm stores

NICE TO HAVE:

• Wonderdust - Must have if you are doing your own disbudding! This is an activate charcoal & iodine powder. It is kind of caustic so not great for sensitive skin. Great if you cut a hoof too short or after you ‘pop the horn bud’ off. Available at most farm stores.

• Alushield - Must have if you are doing your own disbudding! After I pack the disbudding site with wonderdust, I spray with Alushield. Most vets use Alushield over a suture site (like a cesarean). Available at most farm stores.

• Red-kote / Blu-kote - they’ll stain the heck out of anything they touch, but good for a ‘spray it and forget it’ application. If you get minor bleeding post castrating, a little weepy/crusty a few days after disbudding, or minor skin issues. Blu-kote is effective against fungal. There are better products on the market for most things, but I still use both occassionally. Both are available at most farm stores.

• Udder balm - not bad to have around for minor dry skin.

Misc treatments

MUST HAVES:

• Bloat treatment - cooking oil works too, but if you have a bottle of bloat treatment in your medicine cabinet, it’ll be there if you need it. Available at most farm stores

• Eye ointment - Good to have on hand because you never know when someone will poke an eye or get a touch of pink eye. Prompt treatment keeps any issue from escalating so good to have on hand (SIDE NOTE: the internet will tell you that you can mix a drop of LA200 with sterile solution and use that… I did that ONCE… NEVER AGAIN! That eye got MORE red/cloudy, use the right med whenever possible). Terramycin is available at most farm stores, others pictured available from a veterinarian if the terramycin doesn’t work promptly. (PRO-TIP: wrap metal tube in black tape so it doesn’t crack and make a goopy mess).

• Lube - have some form of general lube. Never know what you’ll have to put where. Available at farm store or people store.

NICE TO HAVES:

• CMPK drench - unnecessary for boys/pets - I prefer the paste but it’s harder to find (see pastes section below). The liquid tastes awful and poses an aspiration risk. Good to have if you are breeding. Available at the farm store.

• Calcium Gluconate - unnecessary for boys/pets - My go-to for pregnancy/kidding related calcium troubles. I give SQ. Calcium can be overdosed, so good to have if you are breeding, but make sure you know when and how much to administer. Available at the farm store.

OVER PREPARED:

• Dextrose - not going to do you much good if you can’t IV but a life saver in severe cases of low energy. Available at the farm store.

pastes

MUST HAVES:

• Probiotics - Bacteria is what makes the rumen work! Supplementing probiotics during periods of stress, illness, or antibiotic treatment is a good idea. I also do cud transfers if the animal is really sick, but probiotic pastes are easier for preventative. Available at most farm stores. (PRO-TIP: price tends to be different depending on the species on the label… they are all the same. Cattle version usually cheapest, horse most expensive.)

• Universal antidote gel (activated charcoal) - If someone eats something they shouldn’t, you want to get activated charcoal into them ASAP! Having it in your medicine cabinet is the only way you’ll be able to accomplish ASAP. Available at most farm stores.

• Drench gun - Pictured is a big one… I have big ones, medium ones, small ones, specialty syringes… you need a way to get these pastes and meds in the goat. Different sizes are needed for different dose amounts. Available at farm stores. (PRO-TIP: if giving med/dewormer that come ‘ready to dispense’, always put the appropriate dose in a drench gun / syringe… too many people accidentally give a larger than intended dose which can cause toxicity/overdose).

• Bolus gun - sometimes bolus guns make giving boluses easier… better than losing a finger. Available at farm stores. Easier to order goat sized ones online.

NICE TO HAVES:

• CMPK paste - unnecessary for boys/pets, good to have if you are breeding. Still tastes awful but harder for them to spit out and/or aspirate. Available at the farm store.

• Keto plus paste - unnecessary for boys/pets, good to have if you are breeding. Still tastes awful but harder for them to spit out and/or aspirate. Available at the farm store.

• Selenium / Vitamin E paste - One way to get selenium in if needed. Selenium can be overdosed so know what you are dealing with. Available at some farm stores, easier to buy online.

• Vitamin gels - I don’t use these much anymore. Feeding a quality pellet and/or lose mineral covers most of these bases. If they are deficient, it is best to treat with just the required item. For general ‘build up’ or recovery uses, I prefer a vitamin/mineral drench such as red cell, powerpunch, or nutridrench (see drenches below).

Drenches

MUST HAVES:

• Power Punch / Nutridrench - a high potency nutrient drench is good to have if you find someone down. Keep them going until you can figure out what the problem is. Available at most farm stores.

• Karo syrup and molasses - can provide energy, but won’t provide much for nutrients. (PRO-TIP: molasses is high in calcium, therefore there is actually science to warm molasses water post kidding. I boost it further with a scoop of YMCP (yeast, magnesium, calcium, potassium, and niacin) powder added to the warm molasses water). You can buy corn syrup and molasses

NICE TO HAVES:

• Red cell - used in the treatment of anemia. You have time to go buy this if you need it. Anemia takes time to recover from. Available at the farm store.

• Propylene glycol - unnecessary for boys/pets, if you are breeding, the keto plus paste (above in pastes) is better. The liquid tastes awful and poses an aspiration risk, use the paste if you can find it. If you can’t, mix in some molasses when you drench. Available at the farm store and easier to find than the paste.

ALSO PICTURED (NOT DRENCHES):

• Chlorhexidine gluconate - cheaper than nolvasan (chlorhexidine diacetate) but not effective against viruses. See above in Wound Ointments for uses. This product is for EXTERNAL USE

• Chlorhexidine lube - Lube plus chlorhexidine, when you need to pull kids, reduces chance of uterine infection.

BUGS! Inside and OUT

On the topic of parasites, prevention through management techniques is best. Parasites are becoming resistant to our products (similar to the antibiotic resistant ‘super bugs’ you hear about) so best-practice treatments should be followed. I have a section on parasite management in ‘so you think you want goats’ (click, you’ll have to scroll, I don’t pay SquareSpace enough money to link directly to that section) or seek advice on the American Consortium for Small Ruminant Parasite Control. They are super awesome and offer the best practice advice.

MUST HAVES:

• Safeguard (fendbendazole) - Safeguard is a very safe dewormer for internal parasites, but not effective against all parasites. It is a good place to start. It doesn’t matter if you buy the goat version, cattle version, or horse version. It’s all the same product and about the same price per dose. Multiple doses over the course of several days are most effective. Available at most farm stores.

• CyLence - CyLence is a pour-on used for the control of external parasites, mainly lice (sucking or biting). It is safe enough for kids. My preference for dealing with lice is to shave the goat if the weather allows. If you can’t shave, multiple treatments, 10 days apart are a good practice. CyLence is available at most farm stores. Similar products that I use include Eprinex and UltraBoss. Sometimes I get a strain of bugs that just won’t respond to CyLence (thanks to resistence).

• Coccidia management meds - If you have kids / young stock, you will eventually run into coccidia problems. See my section in ‘so you think you want goats’ (click, you’ll have to scroll, I don’t pay SquareSpace enough money to link directly to that section) for more info on meds to treat / prevent coccidia.

NICE TO HAVES:

• PythonDust - I ‘dust’ my bucks a couple times a winter for management of lice. They get run down during rut and seem to do better with a little help in the lice control department. They are also constantly jumping on each other or sleeping in a pile. My does stick to their small groups and don’t seem to have as many winter lice issues. Python dust or similar products are available at most farm stores.

• Noromectin/Ivermectin Plus injectable - This product has a component that prevents liver flukes, which can be an issue in areas which whitetail deer and slugs/snails are present. It also addresses mites. You can give the injectable version orally, as well, which is easier to dose than the paste. Available at most farm stores.

• Ivermectin pour-on - Ivermectin pour-on is helpful in treating lice, mites, and will absorb and cover internal parasites as well. Too bad so many bugs are resistant to ivermectin. Available at farm stores.

• Moxidectin (Quest) - getting into the big guns of internal parasites with this one. You should KNOW what you are dealing with through fecal testing when you reach for this gun. Available at farm stores.

• Valbazen - another big gun for internal parasites… Once again, KNOW what you are dealing with to do your part in delaying parasite resistance (I say delaying, because it is a real problem that already exists). Valbazen is not safe for pregnant animals. Available at some farm stores.